Why I chose African over French cuisine
So my grand French foodie plan was to go to Marseille to taste its world-famous bouillabaisse, and then share its secrets. I’ve never tasted the classic French stew, and I figured it would be best to go to the source for the most authentic dish.
And then I saw the price. At around 50 to 60 Euros a person, bouillabaisse is not cheap—and it’s often prepared for two. Plus, you generally need to order the dish a day in advance, and my last-minute schedule left me scrambling. Sure, there are plenty of places along the port and in the squares that offer bouillabaisse for 15 to 20 Euros a person, but I’d been warned against shoddy imitations. So I decided that real bouillabaisse will have to wait until I’m rich and famous (or one of those Antibes yacht owners falls in love with me), and focused on the next best thing: the wonderful selection of cheap, delicious North African food and Provençal cooking.
I found Ivoire Restaurant in my guidebook—and I don’t think I ever would have wandered in if it wasn’t for the glowing description. The neighborhood is a bit shoddy, and the front of the restaurant doesn’t look like anything special (very bummed that slight technical issues have deleted the photos I took of the inside and façade of the restaurant). However, if you’re a solo traveler, you can’t find a place where you’ll feel more welcome. Mama Africa, the owner who is known for helping new North African immigrants find their place in Marseille, greets every patron—new and old—with les bisous.
The restaurant is small—about eight tables with a one-person kitchen in the back. You can’t beat the fish dishes with a side of fried bananas—I fell in love with this side dish (I immediately Skyped my Liberian best friend after dinner to see if she could teach me how to make them—they were that good). I daresay the fish was cooked just as well as any fancy French restaurant I’ve been to, and it was absolutely bursting with flavor. And my absolute favorite find was bissap, a homemade juice made with hibiscus flowers. I raved about it so much that on my second night there, Mama Africa sent me home with a huge plastic water bottle of it—that’s the kind of friendly service you can expect to receive here. It’s more like going to a friend’s house for dinner than a restaurant.
The other North African specialty that seduced my taste buds was the flat bread from Le Soleil d’Egypte on Rue Longue-des-Capucins. For 2,50 Euros, you can have a fresh, warm flat bread filled with cheese, vegetables or meat. I tried the mahjouba legumes, stuffed with potatoes, tomatoes, pepper, onions and a spicy, addictive sauce—the perfect lunch to snack on as I wandered the market street. I also tried the mahjouba fromage, which seems like the North African version of a grilled cheese. The only downside is that Marseille is seriously lacking in benches or open spaces to sit down—and it can get a bit tricky to eat the burrito-like dish walking through busy streets.
If you’re not looking for North African or other ethnic food—although I think it’s the best thing the multicultural city has to offer—Provencal specialties are also easy to find. I stumbled upon the adorable Le Clan des Cigales while wandering in Le Panier. Food is simple but delicious—and I’m bummed that I couldn’t find room for the artisan ice cream (the thought of limoncello ice cream is what made me sit down!).
What are your favorite restaurants in Marseille? And if you’ve tried bouillabaisse, what did you think?
