Railay: Thai paradise for outdoor adventurers
After the “backpacker heaven” of Phi-Phi and the sleazy unruliness of Phuket, the yet-to-be-completely-exploited vibe of Railay was much appreciated.
It’s an early-to-rise town, with many rock climbers scrambling up the limestone by 8 a.m. and then napping on the beach as sun blazes overhead. With only footpaths to get around the island, most people go barefoot until they slip on their climbing shoes or go out for a swim. While there are still a few places to enjoy a cold beer after a physically grueling day, it’s the anti-party island: people are here to DO stuff during the day.
Shimmy up a rock: There’s no doubt that Railay’s biggest and best attraction are the limestone crags that rise out of the sea. With countless routes for all different levels, it’s not only a destination for experienced climbers but a breathtaking place to learn. Working for the reward of an incredible panoramic view over the water, I fell in love with the mental and physical challenge of climbing (I ended up climbing five out of the six days I was in Railay, and am keen to try it in other locations). Nue, my guide with Highland Climbing School, was absolutely awesome–he climbs without ropes or shoes, and is honestly faster than a monkey. Word on the street is that he’s one of the top climbers in the world–and his hilarious, Rastafarian-infused help was much appreciated. Never try, never know, as he was keen to remind me when I was stuck in a tight spot.
Visit Phra Nang Beach: This long stretch of sand has something for everyone. Stay close to the walkway to watch in awe as expert rock climbers scamper up the cliff faces without a rope. There’s plenty of shade near the cliffs, and trees line the back of the beach for fair-skinned faces. The roped-off swimming area actually has water deep enough to have a proper swim, which was refreshing after the shallow waters of Phi-Phi. Past the food boats, you can swim (during the morning’s high tide) or gingerly walk across reef (during afternoon’s low tide) or kayak (at any time of day) to a giant rock formation that lords over a small beach with some excellent rock climbing paths.
Eat from a boat: Since no vendors are allowed on Phra Nang Beach, the ever-creative Thai entrepreneurs fitted out their longboats with kitchens and flashy menu signs. Refresh yourself after a grueling morning on the beach with a chilled fresh young coconut, or fill up with a piece of BBQ chicken or corn-on-the-cob after a proper swim.
Watch the sun set: As the sun drops over the Andaman Sea, crowds gather on Railay Beach West. Beach volleyball games attract a mix of sporty locals and fit foreigners, and laid-back backpackers gather on mats to sip a cocktail.
Climb over to the lagoon: Hiking up to the viewpoint or the lagoon is not for the faint of heart: the steep, almost-vertical path is aided by thick ropes and hindered by slippery red clay. Beware of stepping in cloudy pools of water: I got a nasty cut on my foot from a submerged sharp rock. Scrambling over tree roots on the way up is doubly complicated to maneuver on the way down—and is substantially harder in flip-flops. But the viewpoint offers a striking panorama of both Railay East and Railay West, and the mess of palm trees in the middle.
Hike over to Tonsai: A Rastafarian paradise, Tonsai is a laid-back enclave of organic cafés, climbing shops and beachfront restaurants flying green, yellow and red flags dotted with marijuana leaves. It’s a short but sweaty hike from Railay East through dense jungle and over limestone crags.
What’s your favorite thing to do in Railay?
