The best of South Africa
I don’t even know where to start about my trip to South Africa. It already feels like it was a dream! The lead-up to the trip all happened so quickly, and although the trip itself was 13 long, packed days: it feels like it passed in the blink of an eye. Overall: South Africa was everything I dreamed it would be, and more: the country was exotic and colorful, the people were friendly, the landscapes were stunning. More than anything, I am so happy that I read Long Walk to Freedom before going to South Africa: it was so helpful to have a better idea of the country’s history and defining political moments as we traveled to key historical sites and major cities. And Nelson Mandela is just such a beloved figure in the country! It was great to have a better sense of his story and how it relates to the political climate in South Africa as a whole. But without further ado, here’s a peek into all that we squeezed into 13 days ALL OVER the country:
We started the trip on safari at Shambala Game Reserve, which was a wonderful introduction to experiencing South Africa. A safari had never been on my bucket list, but I’m so glad that I had the opportunity to do one! Seeing animals like giraffes, lions, rhinos, hippos and cheetahs up close was such a thrilling experience–and as a city dweller who usually only sees wild animals in zoos, it was a nice reminder of how so many animals can co-exist so peacefully in the wild. And even seeing a cheetah (almost) catch an impala for breakfast was a heady reminder about the circle of life. That was the safari jeep that we drove around in! At one point, there was a mama rhino and a baby rhino fewer than five feet from my face–it was thrilling to be so close to the animals without any sort of barrier in between. We stayed at the gorgeous Nelson Mandela Centre for Reconciliation–kind of like the South Africa Camp David, a beautiful home out in the bush where Mr. Mandela used to invite diplomats, politicians and friends. It’s only been open to the public since April, and it was such an honor to stay there–although next time, when I don’t have to worry about connectivity and Instagram, I think I’d opt to relax in the remote Zulu Camp Shambala! We took part in sundowners, a South African tradition of driving out into a predator-free open area in the bush to enjoy a chilled beverage and watch the sun set. All of that wide-open sky! It felt so incredibly far from the city that I call home, both literally and figuratively. After safari, we spent a few days at the Saxon Hotel in Johannesburg. The property was absolutely stunning, especially in the full bloom of spring: I couldn’t get enough of the jacaranda trees or this enormous bougainvillea bush.
The Saxon Hotel is famously known as the place where Nelson Mandela finished writing Long Walk to Freedom, and the preferred place to stay in Johannesburg for celebrities like Oprah Winfrey, the Clintons and Will Smith. It was amazing to see the presidential suite where Mr. Mandela often stayed, and to have the opportunity to experience such thoughtful hospitality. I especially loved starting the morning with a coffee and a view of the infinity pool and sprawling lawns.
While in Johannesburg, we visited Liliesleaf: tucked away in the leafy suburb of Rivonia, this historic homestead was the nexus of the freedom movement during the height of apartheid–and where many of the leading revolutionaries were captured. Utilizing film and voice clips and interactive technology, it tells the story of 20th-century South African history in a truly engaging way: if you go to no other museum in South Africa, I highly recommend making time for this one.
We also visited Soweto, a historically black township. We were able to see the humble brick corner house that Mr. Mandela called home–and learned that Archbishop Desmond Tutu (another Nobel Peace Prize winner) also lived on the same street! There was also a bustling street market, where I found these colorful baskets that were woven out of telephone wire. I couldn’t decide what color to choose: so I bought two, bien sur. Soweto is also where I checked bungee jumping off my list of adrenaline rushes. We did the 100-meter bungee jump between the famous Orlando Towers, two cooling stations that are prominently covered in murals. It was exhilarating and terrifying–and while I’m glad I did it, I don’t think I’ll do it again!We then flew to Durban, where we stayed at the beachfront Beverly Hills Hotel. I couldn’t get over the view from my balcony: how gorgeous is that water?! Durban also has the largest Indian population outside of India, and I’m pretty sure I ate curry for every single meal of the day. I especially loved the curry buffet–with 14 types of curries, and several naan, rice and sauce choices–at the Oyster Box hotel next door.We spent a day in the Valley of a Thousand Hills, a place where many traditional Zulu communities still thrive. We were able to see a traditional Zulu dance, as well as see the inside of the iconic round huts that make up the heart of the Zulu community.The Nelson Mandela Capture Site was worth the drive from Durban: it’s located on the rural road where Mr. Mandela was arrested. However, the true draw of this site is the incredible sculpture by Marco Cianfanelli that pays homage to Mr. Mandela. Created out of 50 steel columns, there is only one point where the whole image comes together and becomes a portrait–from every other angle, it just looks like a bunch of vertical poles.And after our time in Durban, we flew to East London–a small coastal city in the Eastern Cape. We stayed at the gorgeous and remote Prana Lodge: with its lush green canopy, colony of monkeys and Eastern design elements, the property was evocative of the jungles in Bali. They also have miles and miles of private, unspoiled beach–I just wish the weather would have cooperated with a little bit more sunshine to properly enjoy it. However, that just gives me a reason to go back! I was lucky enough to stay in the honeymoon suite, which was SO luxurious. The bathroom is my actual DREAM bathroom: outdoor shower! Giant soaking tub! That rug! Could have spent all of the days and nights just hanging out on the Prana Lodge property, and been plenty happy. And one of the highlights of staying at Prana Lodge was surely being able advantage of the fantastic spa property: they did the most amazing natural foot scrub before a super relaxing massage, which was key after a long day of driving out to more rural villages.We spent a day in Qunu, the village where Nelson Mandela was raised. The highlight for me was spotting this brilliant pop of turquoise on one of the traditional round huts! And after East London, it was on to CAPE TOWN! Although I loved every bit of our travels in South Africa, I honestly think I could have spent the entire trip in Cape Town and had an incredible time. There was something about the city that hooked me immediately. To be fair, it was the first time we saw bright blue skies after a few cloudy gray days in East London–so that also had a hugely positive impact on my mood! But something about the city just clicked with me: it felt really livable, and I was immediately at ease. Our first stop was Bo-Kaap, a traditionally Malay and Muslin neighborhood that is filled with bright and colorful buildings. Between the colonial Dutch architecture details and the vibrant colors, it reminded me SO much of the Pietermaai neighborhood in Curacao.After Bo-Kaap, we wandered around the beautiful waterfront and took the ferry out to Robben Island. Although it’s home to the cutest penguins (!!!), Robben Island is best known as the location of the prison where Nelson Mandela lived for 18 years of his captivity. Our tour around the prison was led by a former political prisoner who was served his time on Robben Island: it was so incredible to hear about what life was like in the prison from someone who actually experienced it. The other can’t-miss experience in Cape Town: going to the top of Table Mountain! We took the tram up the side of the mountain, and were greeted with the most incredible views over the city and the beaches. Dabito had the wonderful idea of taking up a protea, which is South Africa’s national flower.
And perhaps my favorite activity: wine tasting! We visited the beautiful Stellenbosch wine region, where I had the opportunity to chat with South Africa’s first black female winemaker as well as taste several of South Africa’s delicious wines. One of my favorite discoveries in Cape Town was the Neighbourgoods Market, which one of my local friends recommended. All of the delicious and varied food options reminded me of Smorgasborg in Brooklyn, except with the added bonus of live music, plenty of places to buy a drink, and several design and clothing stores. I opted for a delicious smoothie bowl from Fresch Bowls and a fresh young coconut: so light and refreshing after so many heavy meals! Even when we weren’t in Bo-Kaap, there were so many colorful buildings scattered around Cape Town: I just couldn’t get enough!
Although I’m happy to back home in New York City, I’m still missing the view from my room at the Taj Cape Town–and all of the fantastic people and places that welcomed me to South Africa. I already can’t wait to go back!
Cheers to Visit South Africa for inviting me on such an epic trip! Although I was a guest of the tourism board, all opinions are my own.
What is your favorite photo of South Africa? What do you want to learn more about?