Why I always stay in the Marais when I visit Paris

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Whenever I visit Paris, I stay in the Marais neighborhood. My very first trip to Paris was when I was 11: it was with my mom and a family friend, and we stayed in a teeny-tiny hotel room up a skinny circular staircase right down the street from the Centre Pompidou.

On subsequent trips with my mom, we realized that staying in apartment in Paris is much better value and much more fun–but we still stayed loyal to the Marais neighborhood, which has changed significantly over the last 15 years. It’s known as being both the traditional Jewish neighborhood and home to large gay population–and it’s rapidly gentrifying. Either way, it’s always felt very safe and the location is super convenient for all the touristy things–while still feeling like a place where locals actually live.

We stayed in this Airbnb studio (not sponsored!), which was perfect for us. It’s pretty tiny (or shall we say, efficiently designed) but it had everything we needed and more: a mini-fridge to keep cheese and yogurts, a super modern bathroom, a comfortable bed, even remote-controlled skylights. Bonus: there was an elevator (to the 5th floor, and then one flight of stairs to the top) and an AC unit (which we didn’t have to use since it was surprisingly chilly, but which was still worth splurging on just in case), two things that are pretty hard to find in Paris. And, of course, the view over the rooftops! I was a little concerned about the noise from such a busy street below, but it was much quieter than I expected, especially late at night.My first stop in Paris is always a falafel at L’As du Falafel: usually, I’ll pop and eat it in the little square off Rue des Blancs Manteaux or in the Jardin des Rosiers (there’s an entrance to this courtyard slash park right next to COS further down Rue des Rosiers). But since our Airbnb was basically right next door to L’as du Falafel, we decided to take them upstairs and enjoy with a view of the rooftops! Pro tip: it’s cash-only, and none of the competitors compare. Rue des Rosiers is the heart of Jewish culture in this neighborhood, but it’s becoming increasingly gentrified. Although there are still plenty of kosher bakeries and butchers and synagogues, there are more and more fancy clothing boutiques on the block (sadly pushing out my vintage staples!). Even so, I still love a walk down the cobblestone street–especially early in the morning, before it’s full of falafel hawkers and tourists.

Perhaps my favorite new discovery in the neighborhood was Une Glace à Paris–thanks to Lindsey for the recommendation! I couldn’t get over this cherry-cinnamon-mint combination: it was so refreshing on a summer day. That said, I still love a scoop of gelato at Pozzetto (located right around the corner).