A guide to Mexico City for first-timers
I had high expectations for Mexico City, and yet: it went above and beyond every one of them. The top-level takeaways: there are beautiful buildings, tree-lined streets and a selection of world-class museums. The food scene is outrageous: everything is delicious, from the tacos on the street to the tasting menu at one of the best 50 restaurants in the world. It’s also affordable, safe and easy to navigate, whether by foot, by car, by public transportation or by bike. And perhaps the real differentiator is the people: they’re warm, friendly and helpful (even when you’re mangling their native language).
We spent four and half days in Mexico’s capital city to celebrate our one-year anniversary, and I’m already scheming how to go back. I think it would be a fantastic destination for just about any trip: obviously, I loved it with my significant other, but I also think it would be so fun as a girls trip (super affordable option for a bachelorette or big birthday celebration, depending on where people are flying from), a solo weekend, an alternative to a cultural trip to Europe. So! Here are a few of the best things we ate, drank and experienced:
What to do
Wander around the Condesa and Roma neighborhoods. I fell in love with Mexico City as soon as we stepped out into this neighborhood: the tree-lined avenues, the Art Deco facades, the trendy cafes and bars and restaurants. It was also SO dog-friendly: there were pooches everywhere, often unleashed! Honestly, I told David multiple times that I thought I could live in Mexico City–but the major caveat would be that it would have to be in Condesa or Roma Norte. 
Visit the Frida Kahlo Museum. Located in the beautiful blue house where she was born, grew up, lived with Diego Riviera and died, it not only features plenty of her artwork but also gives a glimpse into her daily life. Pro tip: buy tickets online for the first opening slot of the day. You’ll get to skip the (very) long line and enjoy the museum and the beautiful courtyard without hordes of people.
See the iconic Palacio de Bellas Artes: you might recognize it from the opulent Day of the Dead opening scene in Spectre. Inside, it often has exhibitions and also has hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature.
Pet all of the dogs at Parque Mexico. There’s a dog park filled with towering trees and pups of all breeds at all hours of the day and night: I might have detoured us past this dog park on our way back to our apartment every single time. And if you go on Sunday afternoon, the park will be lined with impossibly cute puppies for adoption: don’t say I didn’t warn you!
Wander the grounds at Bosque de Chapultepec. It’s basically Mexico City’s Central Park–but dogs aren’t allowed, which is very sad. There’s also a castle that’s a museum AND offers really gorgeous views of the park and city (we didn’t have time to hop up but I saw it in my friend’s post about her babymoon and now wish I did!). 
Cheer on the Lucha Libre madness at Arena Mexico. There are shows every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday night, and you can either buy tickets in advance or when you arrive. Bring small bills and change.
And a few museums that we missed but that I’d love to check out on my next trip: Museo Soumaya, and the National Museum of Anthropology.
Day Trips
Climb up to the gods at the Pyramids of Teotihuacan. Located about 25 miles outside of Mexico City, the site features some of the most significant Mesoamerican pyramids built between 100 BC and 250 AD. It’s also known for its complex, multi-family residential compounds and well-preserved ancient murals. Pro tips: take an Uber there (it will run between $30 and $45 depending on traffic) and grab the bus back outside the main entrance (it comes every 30 minutes and will cost $2.75 a person and will go to the central bus station in Mexico City). Go early to avoid crowds. If you want to hire a tour guide to learn more, there will be plenty offering their services right past where you buy tickets. Wear comfortable shoes that you can climb steep, uneven stairs in and bring plenty of sunscreen!
Float among the gardens at Xochimilco: there is a network of canals in the Xochimilco neighborhood in the south part of Mexico City where you can hire a trajinera, or colorful boat, to take you around. The boats hold up to 18 people, and they charge a flat rate (not per person) to take you around the canals. There are also boats on the river that will float up next to you and make you tacos, sell you beers, or even have a mariachi band! You can also bring food and drinks with you, but my recommendation is to go hungry, and bring small bills (and maybe some beers). The toughest part is the negotiations: I’m sure we overpaid, but that’s one of the tough parts of not speaking Spanish! It also was obviously more expensive since it was just the two of us. I think it’d be the most fun if you had a big group and could turn it into your own private party boat! Public transportation getting there is definitely possible, but an Uber costs about $30 and takes about 30 minutes (if you do take an Uber, the address is Embarcadero Cuemanco). 
Where to eat & drink
For the best value and most authentic experience: EAT STREET FOOD. There are vendors everywhere, selling tacos and sopes and fresh juices. It’s cheap and delicious and incredible, and probably the best part of Mexico City. We considered doing this tour and decided against it, but I kind of wish we had: I think that it would have been really helpful to have someone local teach us some of the ins and outs of street tacos. 
If you want a splurge, make a reservation at Pujol or Quintonil. Both are on the list of the world’s 50 best restaurants and can easily be reserved via OpenTable. A number of people told us that Pujol was the best meal they’ve ever had in their lives and we drooled over the Chef’s Table episode that features him (season 2, episode 4), so our expectations were HIGH for the six-course tasting menu. This might be an unpopular opinion, but I honestly wasn’t that impressed: a few of the courses were stellar, but others fell flat, and the service wasn’t at the level I’d expect for the price point (aka I spent a lot of time and effort trying to get a drink order in, and then waiting around for said drink to arrive–y’all, I’m trying to give you more money! Make it easy for me!). Even so, the outdoor bar and patio is lush and luxurious: if nothing else, definitely worth popping by for a cocktail.
For a pastry flaky and buttery enough that you’ll wonder if you’ve magically been transported to Paris (especially since it’s nestled on a quiet tree-lined street of ornate Art Deco facades), make a morning pilgrimage to Panaderia Rosetta. DO NOT MISS THE GUAVA ROLL (reason enough to go early: once they’re out for the day, they’re out!) or the little rosemary bollos. And although they have coffee here, I recommend grabbing your pastry and walking to Buno 42 for a stellar espresso drink–and then sit down to enjoy both in the nearby Plaza Rio de Janeiro.
If you’re looking for something delicious without any pretension, stop in at a Le Casa de Tono. Yes, it’s a chain restaurant–but it’s mostly full of locals, especially on lunch breaks. It’s also a good option if you’re looking for something cheap and authentic, but aren’t comfortable ordering or eating street food: it is much easier to be able to look at a menu and mark down your choices! I loved the pozole, the guacamole (which costs about $1.50!), the enchiladas verde, the flan and the ice-cold beers. Honestly, this might have been one of my favorite meals that we had–I left totally satisfied and happy, and it only cost $15 for a lunch spread for two.
Don’t miss an afternoon chocolate and churro break at El Moro. Beware: the “hot chocolate” is basically a melted chocolate bar, thick and rich and sweet. Perfect for dipping a fresh cinnamon sugar churro in! Grab an outdoor table for peak people watching.
For a wide variety of chilaquile options, check out Chilpa. You can choose baked or traditional, and mix and match from nine ingredients and seven different sauces. David had a hot horchata here too, which he highly recommends: I’m regretting not taking the opportunity to try it, although I was totally happy with the fresh green juice I opted for.
If you want to start your morning on the healthy side, pop into hipster fruit-and-vegetable heaven Ojo de Agua. While you’re waiting for a table, peruse the menu: once you get a table, you can put in your order at the front counter. There’s also a to-go counter if you want to grab a fancy juice or acai bowl to enjoy in the nearby Parque Mexico.
Refresh your afternoon with a paleta! There are vendors in many of the parks (especially around the time when school is out) or in simple storefronts. The fruit-forward Mexican ice pops are deliciously fresh and available in plenty of tropical flavors: my go-to option is always guava.
If you want a nice dinner without the pomp: head to MeroToro. In terms of food quality and level of service, this was our favorite meal. I loved the mezcal-jamaica cocktail, and every course that we ordered was beautifully presented and full of flavor.
For a nightcap in a buzzy and cool space, check out Gin Gin. Another spot that we weren’t able to squeeze in but that I’ve heard great things about: live jazz and a speakeasy vibe at Jules Basement.
Where to Instagram
La Casa de Los Azulejos (the House of Tiles) is an 18th-century palace that’s now a restaurant, with an exterior covered in blue and white tiles from Puebla.
Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a crazy cool modern library.
The Palacio de Correos de Mexico is the most stunning place I’ve ever seen to buy stamps.
Kiosco Morisco features intricate, Islamic-inspired geometric patterns, and is located in a lovely and leafy square.
The blue walls and fuchsia bougainvillea of the Casa Azul at the Frida Kahlo museum are the perfect portrait background.
Where to shop
For high-end women’s clothing, check out Carla Fernandez. For interesting vintage pieces, duck into Goodbye Folk.
For stylish home goods, head to Mint & Lime.
For books on books, try Casa Bosque for modern reads and the stretch of Avenue Alvaro Obregon between Tonala and Orizaba for lots of antique stacks.
For everything that you can dream of and more, get lost in Mercado de Coyoacan.
Where to stay
I can’t say enough good things about our Airbnb, but alas, I shall try. It was spacious, comfortable and full of sunshine and plants (aka the easiest way to my heart). The location was fantastic, located between the beautiful neighborhoods of Condesa and Roma. It was an easy walk to lots of cafes and restaurants, as well as plenty of street tacos and morning juices. More importantly, there was a hammock in the living room: having an afternoon cervesa in the sun-soaked hammock while reading my book was straight luxurious. p.s. if you’ve never tried Airbnb before, sign up with this link to save $40 off your first booking!
How to get around
Honestly, we were lazy and Ubered just about everywhere: it was super easy and pretty cheap (most of our rides cost less than $3 total). That said, traffic in Mexico City is no joke. The city bus and Metro are even cheaper and easy to use. And there is also a bike share program set up in the city! Depending on where you stay, though, the city is fairly walkable: we logged a lot of steps, but discovered so many gems just wandering the streets.
FAQ’s
How easy is it to travel in Mexico City without speaking Spanish?
Despite growing up in California, my Spanish is TERRIBLE. It is embarassingly bad, but I can usually get along OK since my French knowledge helps me figure out signs and menus. Although I wish my Spanish was better if only to be a nicer tourist, we had a really easy time getting around with our limited language skills. Some people spoke English, but definitely not everyone–even so, everyone was really patient and helpful as we tried to communicate. It always help to smile a lot and be flexible (aka I definitely got some street tacos where I wasn’t 100% of what was inside, ha!). All of that to say, it will definitely be easier if you speak Spanish, but it’s still going to be plenty of fun if you don’t. David also downloaded Google Translate on his phone: although I kind of love not really knowing what everything means and taking some wild guesses, it was helpful to have that as a backup–particularly for menus.
Any tips on traveling to Mexico City on a budget?
In comparison to traveling in the United States and Europe, Mexico is an extremely affordable destination. That said, if you’re on a strict budget, I recommend sticking to walking and public transportation. Eat on the streets and in the markets. Opt for Airbnb instead of a hotel. Enjoy the beautiful architecture of the museums from the outside instead of paying entry to get in, and soak up the sunshine and people-watch in all of the city’s gorgeous (and many!) parks and squares.
Is it better to plan all your activities in advance or is it worth leaving time to just wander?
Definitely give yourself some time to wander! I’d recommend planning activities for the morning, and leaving the afternoon open. Other than reservations for fancy restaurants like Pujol or popular museums like Frida Kahlo, you can buy tickets for almost everything when you arrive so you don’t need to set a strict schedule. Obviously, I’m an early bird, but I’m so glad we went to a lot of places earlier in the day since it was less crowded and more pleasant.
Did you feel safe?
YES. Look, my general outlook is that bad things can happen anywhere: I could get mugged in downtown San Diego as easily as in New York City or Mexico City. Be smart about carrying a lot of cash or being flashy with big bills. Don’t drink too much, especially when traveling alone. Don’t be too loud or draw too much attention to yourself. Carry a cross-body bag that you can easily shift to being in front of you, especially in crowded streets or markets. But overall: we felt super safe in Mexico City. Granted, we stuck to the trendier, nicer neighborhoods–but even when I was out on my own without David, I always felt very safe.
Do I need a lot of cash?
You’ll need cash (especially small bills and coins) for street vendors and markets, as well as some tourist attractions (like the floating gardens and the pyramids). But most restaurants, cafes and shops will take credit cards–so will the Lucha Libre ticket office! Worth always having some pesos on you, but overall, we were able to put a lot on our card and avoid pulling out a ton of cash. Of course, always recommend having a credit card that doesn’t charge overseas transaction fees–like the Chase Sapphire Reserve.
Should I worry about drinking water, having ice in my drinks or food safety?
For better or worse, I have a pretty strong stomach and I tend to test my limits (big believer in building up immunity!). Our Airbnb host told us it’s not safe to drink the water and he left us filtered water in the apartment to drink. At most restaurants, they’ll bring you bottled water if you request water to drink. That said, I had ice in my cocktails and didn’t have any issues. When it comes to eating on the street, I look for stalls that have lines (more turnover means that food is generally fresher) and check to see how the cooks handle money (do they touch it directly and then go back to cooking food? if so: nope). Since I don’t eat a ton of meat in general and I have gotten food poisoning from street meat in Central America before, I do tend to stick to vegetarian options on the street but I don’t think that’s a necessary step. Also, highly recommend checking out how to eat street food without getting sick and how to suss out a stellar taco stand from the duds.
One more tip: check what type of coverage your phone carrier offers! I called AT&T before the trip, and discovered a plan that cost $7 less than my monthly plan–and it has unlimited data AND covers all of Canada and Mexico. Having regular phone service and access to data in Mexico was super helpful, especially when it came to things like accessing Uber and Google Maps.
Overall, I LOVED Mexico City and can’t wait to go back! Is there anything that I need to check out on my next trip?
Note that none of my trip was sponsored and all opinions, as always, are my own.
