A weekend guide to Nashville
Y’all, I basically IMMEDIATELY fell in love with Nashville! This little city has been top of my list to visit for quite a while now, and I’m so thrilled to report that it totally exceeded my expectations. I spent a long weekend there with my mom, and although our main reason for being there was to experience the Grand Ole Opry, we still had plenty of time to eat, drink, shop and explore Music City.
This was also my mom’s very first trip to the South! She was super impressed by the Southern hospitality (it’s definitely a real thing), the biscuits and the sweet tea. I was also blown away by how much rapid growth and change the city has experienced: it seems like the entire skyline is brand-new glassy high-rise condos. I don’t think it will be the last time to Nashville for either of us!
One thing to note: Nashville has rapidly become one of the nation’s leading bachelorette destinations. I think my mom and I were equally mortified and mesmerized by the never-ending groups of women in uniforms of short shorts and cowboy boots drinking heavily and twerking publicly, in the backs of open-bed trucks and pedal bars, in just about every neighborhood. Personally, I’m not a huge fan of bachelorette parties in general and it was easy to see why Nashville locals aren’t the biggest fans of their city’s newfound status. It was a good reminder that even when you’re on vacation in a wild and crazy town, these are people’s real lives: behave as you would want your own neighbors to act!
What to Do
I have something to admit: I have always had something against those open-air buses or tourist trolleys that you see rambling around destination cities. I felt like they weren’t “cool” enough, that they were something tourists did and not real travelers (I am cringing at how judge-y I sound). But Nashville in August is hot, it’s a little spread out, and despite my mom being in excellent health: she’s not up for walking all day in 90-degree heat and humidity. So we opted to try the Old Town Trolley Tour on our first day, and it was actually so informative and convenient. We hopped on downtown, hopped off at the Nashville Farmers Market and again at the Parthenon, off at our hotel for a quick nap, and then back on to head downtown for the evening. The drivers had all sorts of fun facts about every sight we saw, and it was a really easy way to get a feel for the layout of the city.
We took a self-guided tour of the Ryman Auditorium, which is the original location of the Grand Ole Opry Saturday show: it’s also where bluegrass was born, where Johnny Cash met June, and the location of countless incredible musical experiences. It also has some of the best acoustics in the world. The tour itself was great (the best “welcome to our museum” intro video that I have truly ever seen), but I also think that a live show here would be next-level: definitely on my list if I make it back to Nashville! Of course, highly recommend a night at the Grand Ole Opry and I also wish I had made some reservations for Bluebird Cafe in advance.
If you’re a country music fan, you can’t miss the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. The building itself is beautiful (the exterior is designed to look like piano keys!), and all of the exhibits were wonderfully executed and full of priceless mementos from the biggest country music stars. I especially liked the Loretta Lynn exhibit that’s on now: she was an early feminist and example of kick-ass working mother.
Lower Broadway is lined with the iconic Nashville honky-tonks: bars filled with plenty of beer and even more live music. If you don’t like the music in one bar, head upstairs or walk next door: there are so many talented acts in this city! And none of them get paid beyond what they’re tipped, so make sure to tip the musicians along with your bartender if you’re a fan of the ambiance.
Another spot that’s really fun to walk around is Music Row. From the outside, it just looks like another historic neighborhood: houses with porches on tree-lined streets. But inside these houses are the recording studios where almost all of country music’s biggest hits have been recorded!
One of my favorite views of the skyline is from the John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge that crosses the Cumberland River: definitely worth a walk!
One of the most unexpected attractions in Nashville’s Centennial Park: the replica of the Greek Parthenon built for Tennessee’s 1897 Centennial Exposition, complete with a 42-foot-tall statue of Athena and an art gallery inside. 
Where to Shop
There are SO many cute shops in Nashville, especially in neighborhoods like 12 South and East Nashville.
A few favorites: all of the one-of-a-kind pieces at Savant Vintage, the fun home goods at White’s Mercantile and Seredipity, the hipster vibes at imogene + willie, lots of chic pieces at Emerson Grace.
Even though I wasn’t super impressed by the actual pieces at Draper James–they seemed too expensive for the quality and not super flattering despite the feminine patterns–the flagship was super cute. They even give you a sweet tea to sip while you browse!
And, of course, it’s Nashville–so there are boots stores galore! Even though I couldn’t quite pull the trigger on a pair–the nice ones are NOT cheap–it’s so neat to pop in and see all of the beautiful craftsmanship. 
Murals to See (and Take Photos In Front Of)
When it comes to murals: go early! The most popular ones get crazy lines, especially with groups of bachelorettes (I swear, some of the bar crawls are actually photogenic mural crawls).
A few favorites: the wings in The Gulch and the colorful murals right across the street from it, the striped wall at the Draper James flagship and the I Believe in Nashville piece right across from it, the wildflower mural and the tie-dye peace sign farther south on 12 South.
Where to Drink: Coffee & Tea
No shortage of good coffee in Nashville! I especially loved Crema (the ricotta and berry toast was perfection, as was the almond milk cappuccino) and the sweet tea with homemade syrups at Farm City Coffee & Tea in Nashville Farmers Market. One spot that came highly recommended but that we didn’t have a chance to get to: Barista Parlor! 
Where to Drink: Drinks
Although we weren’t able to squeeze in a round of bowling, we did have some refreshing cocktails (my mom is currently very on trend with her love of Aperol spritzes) and a nice dinner at uber-trendy Pinewood Social. And to be honest, this was a space where I could have come back again and again: Crema coffee! Wifi! Bowling! Bocce bowl! Good food! Good drinks!
We also had a beer and listened to some great live music at Redneck Riviera. I didn’t think I’d ever seen my mom drinking a beer before noon (!), but in hindsight, going earlier in the day was a great move: the vibe was much more laid-back and you could actually hear the music instead of dealing with a drunk crowd.
Another spot with several floors of music and food and drink options–and a lovely rooftop view–is Acme Feed and Seed.
Where to Eat: Breakfast
When it comes to breakfast: it was immediately clear we were in the South. I’ve gotten so used to my California vibes of avocado toast, acai bowls, fresh juice that I was a little thrown off by all of the biscuits and gravy so early in the morning!
Biscuit Love is one of the most popular brunch spots in the Gulch, and for good reason: those biscuits though! Pro tip: go early (!), and pop in and see if there are any spots at the bar instead of waiting in the crazy line outside.
The Pancake Pantry is another spot with a line that wraps around the corner, but with less trendiness and more down-home quality. I’m still salivating over these Santa Fe cornmeal pancakes: “filled with bacon, cheddar cheese and green chilis and served with maple syrup, picante sauce, and sour cream to make the flavors pop.”
Where to Eat: Lunch & Dinner
When in Nashville, you can’t miss hot chicken at Hattie B’s. It is SO GOOD, but they’re not lying about spice: the mild was plenty enough for me! Pro tip: order ahead online! You can skip the line, and if there are rooms on the countertop on the patio, you can still eat on site. And my favorite part of Southern food is always the sides: coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, potato salad. So good!
We also loved the tacos and the vibe at Bartaco on 12 South: I learned after we left that it’s a chain, but honestly, still recommend. The non-alcoholic grapefruit ginger drink was as refreshing as they come, and I’m still daydreaming about the rock shrimp tacos and crunchy cucumber salad. 
Where to Eat: Sweets
Ok, enough people recommend Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream that I thought it must have been a Nashville original! It was actually founded in Columbus, Ohio (enough reason to visit there next), but the location in 12 South is definitely worth a visit. We opted for a three half scoops to sample different flavors: brambleberry crisp, salty caramel, sweet corn and blackberries.
One thing that is a Nashville original: Goo Goo Cluster! The first-ever combination candy bar was invented in Nashville in 1912. Made up of caramel, marshmallow nougat, peanuts and milk chocolate, it’s the perfect souvenir to take home to husbands with a sweet tooth who are patiently waiting at home. 
Where to Stay
We stayed at the Aertson Hotel, which we absolutely loved. I’m a huge fan of Kimpton properties: they’re super pet-friendly, often feature local artists in the lobby and public spaces, and–my favorite part!–have an evening wine hour with free drinks and snacks each and every day. The Aertson also has a rooftop pool and is located a short walk from Music Row and Hattie B’s (!).
