A solo weekend in Kauai
I’ve been to Hawaii several times (mostly Maui), and I’ve never thought of it as a solo destination: it’s a place for family vacations, or romantic getaways, or beachfront yoga retreats. But I’ve had Kauai at the top of my list for a long time, and I decided I wanted to make it happen–and to do it exactly how I wanted. I booked a long weekend when I was about six months pregnant, and although I didn’t indulge in as many pina coladas as on trips past, I enjoyed exploring the Garden Island very much.
My big goals for the weekend: go on some good hikes, do some snorkeling, eat plenty of poke (yes, while pregnant) and get shave ice every day. I largely succeeded! And frankly, it was a very satisfying last solo trip: Kauai is beautiful, accessible, delicious. Below are all of the things I did and ate and drank, and what I would happily recommend to anyone heading to the island–alone or not.
Koloa Fish Market: a casual spot to grab some perfect poke. I picked this up right after landing at the airport and drove directly to eat it across the street from the beach, and it was the perfect way to start the trip. It was also delicious enough that I decided to pick up another poke plate to take with me to the airport on the drive home! It might have been part of their Covid protocols, but this was strictly takeaway only when I was there, so plan on grabbing and heading somewhere more scenic to enjoy.
Waikomo Shave Ice: a few weeks before my trip, I was at the La Jolla Farmer’s Market and I noticed one of the vendors wearing a hat for this spot–I asked him about it, and he told me his sisters lived in Kauai and owned it! I popped by after my beach poke and snorkel session, and it was absolutely fresh and delicious. They actually use natural fruit syrups instead of high fructose corn syrups, and top it with honey and use compostable bowls: a very nice alternative to the neon colors and styrofoam bowls you see most places.
Holey Grail Donuts: I’m not a crazy donut person (I’ll take a bagel any day), but I am a big fan of draft matcha lattes and inventive combinations. This spot has rotating flavors with a focus on fresh, punchy fruits and local ingredients. I especially liked the Hot Single with local honey and flaky sea salt!
Nourish Hanalai: my favorite part about Hawaii is how easy it is to find fruit- and vegetable-forward healthy meals (with epic views). It might not be cheap, but there is an abundance of produce on the island and so many purveyors that do it right. This little food shack on a dead end street overlooks the most beautiful view and has plenty of shaded spots to enjoy your food. I had the Hanalei bowl, and it was delicious–just be careful to not leave your food or drinks unattended, or the roaming chickens will take advantage!
Queen’s Bath: getting to this oceanfront tidal pool is a little precarious: you kind of have to sneak in through a chainlink fence (along with many other people), and go down a fairly muddy trail and then walk across an oceanfront rocky outcrop. That said: it is a very cool thing to see, and seems a very unique spot to take a swim! I didn’t jump in since I was pregnant and traveling solo, and the tides are a bit unpredictable–seems like it’s definitely more dangerous in the winter as opposed to the summer months–but worth wearing your suit if you’re up for it!
The Right Slice: I love pie and find it shockingly underrepresented in the sweet AND savory sphere! I love that this spot has both, and plenty of Hawaiian-specific flavors to try. I took a slice of mango lilikoi to the beach, and it was a brilliant afternoon treat.
Waimea Canyon: often described as the Grand Canyon of the islands. I took a very lovely scenic drive full of podcasts and stopping at every vista point, and it was an excellent way to pass a couple of hours!
JoJo’s Shave Ice: at the point of enjoying this shave ice, I did not know I would have a baby named Jojo in just a few short months! Alas, this is a pretty popular spot and it is a very easy place to grab a post-Waimea Canyon drive sweet treat.
Dark Horse Coffee: Dark Horse is actually one of my favorite places to grab whole beans and afternoon coffees in North Park, San Diego–so I was surprised to see that they had a location in Kauai! I picked up a Haupia Foam Cold Brew and while I am still unclear as to exactly what haupia foam is–this was a delicious morning beverage.
Kauai Humane Society: without a doubt, the best thing I did when I was in Kauai was take a shelter dog on a field trip. The whole experience was absolutely joyous and heart wrenching. I signed up online the night before (I’ve heard that sometimes it can hit capacity on the weekends during peak travel season, so worth signing up in advance if your plans allow) and then got to the shelter around lunchtime. I’m pretty comfortable with most dogs, but I let them know that I was pregnant and hiking solo–I just didn’t want a pooch who was super strong and not great on a leash! I got to take out the sweetest pitbull pup named Mana: we grabbed lunch and then he was the perfect gentleman on a trail hike. Obviously, my pugs are not big hikers so it was SO fun to get to take a dog hiking–and he was so perfectly behaved that I assumed he must have been a brand-new addition to the shelter from a family that loved him but couldn’t keep him. I was incredibly sad to find out when I dropped him off and raved about him to staff that he’d been at the shelter for more than a year–and when he arrived, he could barely walk on a leash! He had only been approved to go on field trips a few months before, but they had been making such a huge difference in his behavior and social skills.
I obviously love love love dogs and animal rescues hold a special place in my heart, so this whole experience was such a rewarding part of my weekend. It’s also a really seamless experience: it’s super easy to sign up online, and they give you an adventure-ready backpack when you check out a dog. They’ll also assess how comfortable you are with big dogs, pitbulls, behavior issues so that that you’re able to have a good experience. And although this was such a wonderful part of the trip for me, it’s also SO important and healthy for these dogs to get out of the shelter and get to experience the world. Truly, if you have any interest: I cannot recommend this experience more.
Kuilau Ridge Trail: this was the hike I did with my dog friend Mana, and it was the perfect dog-friendly hike. Wide trails, lush foliage, not too steep. It’d be great without a dog too, but I promise–bring a shelter dog with you, and it will be way more fun!
Opa Kalaole Falls: this isn’t really a hike, it’s just a scenic lookout point. But it truly is SO scenic that I must recommend pulling over and taking in the view.
Mount Nounou: A challenging hike with a fair bit of rock scrambling at the end, but the views were worth it.
Warehouse 3540: a very fun collection of independent shops, including some excellent spots to pick up unique souvenirs, a cafe to grab a coffee and food trucks out front.
Hanapepe Town: Most famous for its swinging bridge, this little main street vibe had a few fun shops, a great independent bookstore and a variety of casual food to choose from. A very solid place to stop for lunch and a wander.
Poipu Beach Park: an extremely accessible and chill place to snorkel. It’s super popular with families because of the easy-to-swim sandy cove, but I found it a wonderful little spot to set up with a book on the beach–and take breaks to swim with sea turtles! Recommend going earlier in the day to find parking.
Anini Beach: although this wasn’t as good of a spot for snorkeling as down south, this was a very chill beach to just relax on with a book.
In short: I had the most amazing trip! A reminder that *any* destination can be a fantastic solo travel opportunity.
